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Glacier Express panoramic train seat reservation in 1st or 2nd class from Zermatt or St. Moritz
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Riding on the "slowest express train in the world" from Zermatt through the Swiss Alps to St. Moritz had been on my list for way too long. The Glacier Express held a spot on that list for several years, alongside "spending New Year's in Sydney" and "taking a sushi class in Tokyo."
Sydney and Tokyo were quickly checked off, leaving the Glacier Express in the top position, unchallenged. Since January 3, 2022, there's now a proud check mark next to this world-famous panoramic train.
Finally.
This experience report about the Glacier Express will take you on what is probably the most popular train journey from Zermatt to St. Moritz and hopefully inspire you for your next trip. Because this train ride is worth it for anyone who wants to discover the beauty of Switzerland from a different, more leisurely perspective. It can also be perfectly integrated into your Switzerland itinerary if you have at least three days to spare.
By the way, there are more panoramic trains in Switzerland that are always worth the journey! But for now, let’s stick with the Glacier Express.
Punctually at 08:52 AM, the Glacier Express departs from the station in Zermatt. What lies ahead is a journey over 291 bridges and through 91 tunnels on the way to the Alps and St. Moritz in the Engadin. The Glacier Express takes me down to Brig, up to the Oberalp Pass, back down through the Rhein Gorge to Chur, and ultimately over the Albula Line to the day's final destination. Between Zermatt and Disentis, the train is consistently supported by a cogwheel on the steeper sections of the Glacier Express route.
But let's take it step by step...
With one last, wistful glance at the majestic Matterhorn, I begin the roughly eight-hour train ride through Switzerland. First, the journey leads from Zermatt, 1604 m above sea level, through the Mattertal valley to Brig at 670 m above sea level. This section is partly too steep for the train to overcome without assistance. The rattling of the cogwheel is therefore a constant and reassuring companion on the way to the Rhone Valley.
My glance through the generous panorama windows falls on shining glaciers, steep rock faces, dreamy villages and wild larch forests. Meanwhile, a friendly voice explains to me via the on-board infotainment on my cell phone how the first ascent of the Matterhorn took place in 1865.
(To log into the infotainment, I connect to the on-board Wifi. This gives me access to a whole lot of exciting information about the route via the browser on my cell phone. But more on that later.)
After almost 1000 meters of altitude, we reach the first stopover in Brig. Here, in the capital of the German-speaking part of Valais, more guests board the train. Those who want to travel the Glacier Express in several stages have the opportunity to stop in Brig and visit the Rhone Valley for the next 24 hours before boarding the train again.
Seraina's Tip:
Brig is the starting point for great trips and hikes into the UNESCO World Heritage Jungfrau-Aletsch area. My personal tip for summer or autumn is a hike from Riederalp through the Aletsch forest. Here you can enjoy a magnificent view of the Aletsch Glacier.
The next ascent through the Upper Valais comes quickly. Just after Brig, the terrain rises again, flattening out briefly in Goms. Here, the train passes through one of Switzerland's largest cross-country skiing areas.
The over 100 km of groomed cross-country trails are quite popular. While I observe the eager athletes, a friendly voice in my headphones explains that Raclette, a typical Swiss specialty, was invented in Goms.
Before I can focus again on the skiers and the impressive mountain backdrop, the table in front of me is already being set for lunch. Then, for a moment, the wonderful views come to an end as the train disappears into the approximately 15 km long Furka Tunnel.
I only see the light again in the canton of Uri, where the train also soon makes its second stop. In Andermatt, the stay is about 6 minutes for anyone not staying overnight. Some nicotine enthusiasts enjoy a hurried cigarette before boarding again for the climb to the highest point of the Glacier Express.
Seraina's Tip:
A visit to Andermatt is worthwhile all year round. A popular excursion destination is the Schöllenen Gorge with the legendary Devil's Bridge. The bridge is the historical landmark at the entrance of the Urserntal, and thus also into the Gotthard region.
From Andermatt, the Glacier Express climbs to the Oberalp Pass at 2033 meters above sea level. In serpentine lines, the train with its rattling cogwheel climbs to the highest point of the entire route. Here I'm served lunch, which I enjoy not entirely without incident.
Thanks to the incline, gravity inevitably makes itself noticeable. So I have to tear my concentration away from the passing landscape and focus on my beef stew. Just when I think I have the steady flow under control, gravity strikes again. My cell phone, which I've placed on the tray by the table, slips into my lunch and makes itself comfortable in the ragout.
One embarrassing incident on such a long trip is okay, right? After a few teething problems, however, I suceed in multitasking. So I manage to enjoy the food on the one hand and the view of the Uri Alps on the other.
Due to the mild weather, there isn't nearly as much snow on the Oberalp Pass as typically at this time of year. Normally, a path has to be cut through walls of snow, some of which are several meters high, to allos the Glacier Express to pass. On my trip, however, with an estimated 30 cm of snow, this is definitely not necessary. Nevertheless, there is something enchanting about the snow-covered Oberalpsee.
What surprises me up here is the 14-meter tall red lighthouse standing proudly in the snow. It was built as a symbol of the connection between the beginning and end of the Rhine. Only those who make a donation of 100 CHF or more can access it and receive a key in return.
After this peculiar encounter, we make a steep descent towards Graubünden, where we’ll take a slightly longer break in Disentis/Mustér. Here, we’re in the largest Romansh-speaking community in Switzerland. If you want to learn more about the languages of Switzerland, check out our article on the topic.
Since there’s no cogwheel section between Disentis and St. Moritz, we’ll switch trains in Disentis. This makes for a slightly less frantic cigarette break for my nicotine-addicted travel companions.
Seraina’s Tip:
Take the opportunity to stop in Disentis and continue your journey with the Glacier Express the next day. I recommend visiting the 17th-century monastery complex, which is the oldest Benedictine abbey in Switzerland, located just behind Disentis station.
The continuing descent with the Rhaetian Railway takes you to the Rhine Gorge, known as the “Swiss Grand Canyon.” In summer, the rushing river between steep rock faces is perfect for various water sports. Especially river rafting is popular here.
On the left side of the train, the view of the Rhine Gorge is quite stunning thanks to the large panoramic windows. The Ruinaulta, as it is called in Romansh, winds over 14 km towards Chur. The white rock faces rise up to 350 m high, creating a beautiful play of colors depending on the light.
After the Rhine Gorge, the terrain opens up again, and we will soon arrive in Chur, the oldest city in Switzerland. Here too, travelers on the Glacier Express for several days could visit numerous attractions. Not far from Chur, for example, lies Heidiland, offering plenty of great options and hiking opportunities. Spending a day in Chur is also totally doable thanks to the suggestions in the Glacier Express app.
Seraina’s tip:
In spring, summer, or autumn, the path through the Rhine Gorge is perfect for a day trip from Chur. My personal favorite is the section between Versam and Valendas. The Rhaetian Railway takes you directly from Chur here. By the way, the steep and rugged rock formations of the Rhine Gorge are just as impressive from above as they are from below. You can enjoy a perfect unobstructed view of the Rhine Gorge from the “Il Spir” platform between Flims and Trin. From there, the enchanting Caumasee is not far off either.
After Chur, we embark on the final stage of the Glacier Express, heading back towards the Rhine gorge. However, the train veers off before the gorge and climbs up towards Bergün. Along the way, we cross another highlight of the route - the Landwasser Viaduct. What makes this 142 m long and 65 m high structure special is that it leads directly into a tunnel.
What follows after Bergün is a winding ride to the Albula Tunnel. The Albula line, with its three spiral tunnels, is part of the UNESCO World Heritage. The line, harmoniously embedded in the landscape, is a showcase piece from the era of railway pioneers. It's fascinating how the scenery keeps changing, revealing new views of the lower situated Bergün.
After traveling through the nearly 6 km long Albula Tunnel on the UNESCO World Heritage line, we reach the vast and enchanting Engadin. The impressive Engadin stone houses have always fascinated me with their artistically painted facades. But just as I begin to indulge in my childhood memories, the announcement comes that our final destination is approaching. So my long but eventful day wraps up just in time for daylight in St. Moritz.
Seraina’s Tip:
A new panoramic train begins from St. Moritz. The Bernina Express takes you over the Bernina Pass through the Puschlav all the way to Italy. So if you haven't had enough after the Glacier Express, more breathtaking views of glaciers, mountains, viaducts, mountain lakes, and even palm trees await you here.
To ensure that I don't miss any important information or highlights during my journey on the Glacier Express, I use the infotainment via my cell phone. This can be opened with the on-board Wifi via the browser and tracks the journey on an interactive map. Whenever new information about a region or place is available, a sound plays on the train. That's the signal that it's time for the next portion of knowledge.
In addition to exciting stories about the passing landscapes and the short video series "meet the locals" , the app is equipped with two playlists. One focuses more on music from the pop scene, while the other focuses on traditional pieces. Thus, I let myself get sprinkled by songs like "Heimweh", "I han es Zündhölzli azündet" and "Venus vo Bümplitz". Somehow it fits to Switzerland, even if these songs aren't usually playing in my Spotify.
For people without a cell phone, there are headphones and two different music channels available next to the seat. The same information gets played there and it's possible to switch between different channels.
On a long journey, good food is a must. The culinary offerings on the Glacier Express are extensive and cater to everyone's tastes. The menu features regional dishes and classic meals, with options available for vegetarians, vegans, and those with allergies without the need for prior reservation.
Dishes like a hearty cheese platter, a Grisons barley soup, delicious chicken tikka masala, or typical Grisons Capuns will leave nothing to be desired. The dessert selection is equally tempting, including classics like Engadine nut cake, Valais apricot tart, a selection of sorbets, and much more.
A wide range of beverages is available to quench your thirst, starting with the typical Swiss drink Rivella and culminating in exquisite sparkling wine. Luckily, the journey takes a while, giving you plenty of time to study the menu and try out different dishes.
You can also view the current menu online.
Menu | Price |
---|---|
Daily Special | 36 CHF |
2-Course Menu | 42 CHF |
3-Course Menu | 49 CHF |
4-Course Menu | 55 CHF |
The Glacier Express operates almost all year round. The summer schedule runs from mid-May to the end of October, while the winter schedule runs from mid-December to mid-May.
Route | Departure Winter | Arrival Winter |
---|---|---|
Zermatt - St. Moritz | 08:52 | 16:37 |
Zermatt - St. Moritz | 09:52 | 17:37 |
St. Moritz - Zermatt | 08:51 | 17:10 |
St. Moritz - Zermatt | 09:50 | 18:10 |
In summer there is an extended offer of trains. There are twice as many trains as in the winter season. However, some of them only cover part of the route to/from Chur and Brig.
Route | Departure Summer | Arrival Summer |
---|---|---|
Zermatt - Chur | 07:52 | 13:24 |
Zermatt - St. Moritz | 08:52 | 16:37 |
Zermatt - St. Moritz | 09:52 | 17:37 |
Brig - St. Moritz | 14:18 | 21:00 |
St. Moritz - Brig | 07:02 | 13:40 |
St. Moritz - Zermatt | 08:51 | 17:10 |
St. Moritz - Zermatt | 09:48 | 18:10 |
Chur - Zermatt | 14:26 | 20:10 |
How much does the Glacier Express actually cost? That’s a good question. The price for this journey in the panoramic carriage through the Alps is made up of two components. On one hand, you need a train ticket for the route, and on the other hand, you have to add the cost of the seat reservation.
All tickets for the Swiss rail service are valid on the Glacier Express. The prices in the table are for adults with no discounts.
Route | 2nd Class (CHF) | 1st Class (CHF) |
---|---|---|
St. Moritz - Zermatt | 159 | 272 |
St. Moritz - Brig | 119 | 204 |
St. Moritz - Andermatt | 88 | 150.40 |
Chur - Zermatt | 124 | 212 |
Chur - Brig | 84 | 144 |
Andermatt - Zermatt | 77 | 131 |
A seat reservation is required in any case, even if the route costs nothing with certain tourist passes. The prices for the seat reservation vary by route and cost the same for 1st and 2nd class.
Season | Long Distance (CHF) | Short Distance (CHF) |
---|---|---|
Year-round | 49 | 44 |
A luxury that I’ll save for another time is the journey through the Alps in the Excellence Class. It’s one of the most exclusive tourist highlights in Switzerland. Passengers in the Excellence Class travel in comfortable lounge seating in the panoramic carriage and enjoy the best views thanks to a guaranteed window seat, along with access to the exclusive Glacier Bar, which invites you to relax. The centerpiece of the Glacier Bar is the gold-plated compass on the ceiling, which indicates the direction of travel. Especially during the spiral tunnels, this is a special highlight.
Throughout the entire journey, the concierge and the experienced crew take care of the guests' well-being. A 7-course menu with selected wine pairing is included.
At each seat, a tablet is available to discover the highlights along the route. The ticket for a ride in the Excellence Class costs 490 CHF. It includes the seat reservation and a valid 1st class ticket for the route. The Excellence Class is available on the earlier of the two trains that cover the entire route.
Make use of the daylight
If you're travelling on the Glacier Express in the winter like I did, I recommend taking the earlier train in the morning. Since the days are rather short in winter, you'll be travelling during daylight hours. At the end of my trip in St. Moritz, it got dark shortly after arrival.
Reserve your meal
It's best to reserve your meal when you buy your ticket. This way you can enjoy the ride without worrying about food. Of course, there's also the possibility to order à la carte on the train.
Sit on the left side (starting from Zermatt)
The view from the Glacier Express is undoubtedly magnificent, regardless of which side you sit on. In the Rhine Gorge and at the Landwasser Viaduct, however, the view on the left side (when starting in Zermatt) is somewhat better.
Travel from Davos
You have the possibility to travel the Glacier Express from Davos instead of St. Moritz. To do this, you change trains in Filisur and take the Rhaetian Railway between Davos and Filisur.
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A trip on the Glacier Express is a highlight that I definitely saved for too long. Even though Tokyo and Sydney had earned their place on my list, this panoramic train ride definitely holds a candle to them.
The Glacier Express ride was especially worth it, as I usually only take the train to get from one place to another Switzerland. As quickly as possible. The Glacier Express was the perfect opportunity to shift down a gear and enjoy the view. The interesting information about the route brought previously unknown places in Switzerland closer to me.
I can highly recommend a ride on the Glacier Express if you want to experience a decelerated day in an impressive landscape.